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Most
commonly used materials and their characteristics
are listed below. Please note that this is
not exhaustive list of materials. |
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The
information given below is given in good faith,
but Trumans can accept no responsibility for
the information. Normal screening procedures
should be operated before any material is
selected for use. |
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This
is both the name of a fabric and a synthetic
fiber. It is produced by the polymerization
of the product formed when an alcohol and
organic acid react. Of all the manufactured
fibers, polyester is the most used. It is
second only to cotton in worldwide use.
It is frequently blended with cotton, rayon
or other synthetics. Polyester is the best
wash-and-wear fiber |
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Characteristics: |
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High strength (although somewhat lower
than nylon, stronger than silk), excellent
tear strength |
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High
abrasion resistance, resists wrinkling,
stretching, shrinking |
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Crisp,
soft and resilient when wet or dry
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Mildew
resistant, retains heat-set pleats
and crease |
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Waterproof
and breathable, washable or dry-cleanable |
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Low moisture
absorbency allows the fiber to dry
quickly. Because of its low absorbency,stain
removal can be |
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a problem,
static and pilling problems |
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Resistant
to most chemicals |
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Combination
of polyester and cotton is stronger
and more colour-fast, is less subject
to shrinkage and wrinkles |
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Trademarks &
Types of Polyester: |
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Akwatek®
by Comfort Technologies, Inc., Coolmax®
and Coolmax Alta® by DuPont, Comfortrel®
by Wellman, Thermolite® Base by DuPont,
Thermax® DuPont, Thinsulate® and
Thinsulate Ultra® by the 3M, Tuflex,
Thermolite® and Thermolite® Active
by DuPont.
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It
is a synthetic polyamide fibre. Polyamide
is the basic fiber-forming substance for
nylon and the polymerized is the product
of alcohols and acids. Polyamide is also
the European term for nylon. Nylon is one
of the strongest fibers.
Quick-drying nylon fabric is naturally
hydrophobic and resistant to shrinkage
and wrinkling.
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Characteristics: |
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High-tenacity, high strength and excellent
resilience |
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Superior
abrasion resistant, resistance to tearing
and snagging and does not decay |
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Resists
shrinkage and wrinkling, pleat retentive |
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Resistant
to damage from oil and many chemicals
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Lightweight
and warmth, smooth, soft and durable,
good drapeability, elastic and lustrous |
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Extremely
windproof, waterproof, and abrasion
resistant |
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Maintains
original shape and great versatility |
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Excellent
dyeability, can be precolored or dyed
in a wide range of colors |
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Easy to
wash, fast drying, low moisture absorbency
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Static and
pilling can be a problem, poor resistance
to continuous sunlight |
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Trademarks & Types of Nylon: |
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Cordura®
by DuPont, Akwadyne® by Comfort Technologies,
Inc, SPECTRA® by Allied Signal Performance
Fibers, Tactel® by DuPont, Oxford Nylon®,
Spandex®, Velcro®, DURATEX®,
Dynatec, Parachute, Taslan, Nylon Taffeta |
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Cotton
is a natural vegetable fibre (cellulosic)
obtained from seed hair of shrubby plants
of the gossypium family. Cotton is tropical
in origin but is now cultivated worldwide.
It is cut at different lengths to form different
types of cotton. It has been spun, woven,
and dyed since prehistoric times.
Cotton is soft, breathable, durable and
absorbent. It wears and washes well and
helps hold colors well after repeated washing.
Cotton is a popular fabric worn by people
with sensitive skin as it allows the skin
to breathe.
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Characteristics: |
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Excellent comfort and fit, breathable
and dexterity |
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Good strength
and firmness |
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Soft hand
and drapes well, fair crease resistance |
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Absorbent
- absorbs humidity more easily and is
better for heat insulation |
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Good durability,
very good colour range and good color
retention, prints well |
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Machine-washable,
dry-cleanable and normal wash |
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Maintains
original shape and great versatility |
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Easy to
handle and sew, shrinkage 2-3% |
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Poor flame
and heat resistance, poor acid resistance
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Fabric construction
– woven or knitted and comes in
100% cotton or in blend with a variety
of other material – |
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man made
or natural fibres |
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Trademarks & Types of Cotton: |
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Proban
by Albright & Wilson Ltd, Supima Cotton |
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Polyurethane
(PU) is a thermoplastic polymer of urethane
- a manmade fiber or thermoplastic resin. |
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Characteristics: |
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Good abrasion resistance and tensile
strength |
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Low melting
point, high strength, and durability |
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Good resistance
to oils, organic solvents, oxidation
and ozone. |
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Poor resistance
to hot water |
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Not recommended
for use above 79 C (179 F) |
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Used as
coating material on other materials. |
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Poly
vinyl chloride (PVC) is a synthetic thermoplastic
polymer of vinyl chloride. It is a colorless
solid with outstanding resistance to water,
alcohols, and concentrated acids and alkalies
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Characteristics: |
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Outstanding abrasion resistance and
good resistance to punctures, cuts,
snags |
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Liquid
resistance to mild chemicals, strong
acids, oils, fats, and solvents. |
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Can resist
alcohols but not aldehydes, ketones,
aromatic hydrocarbons. |
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Generally,
remains flexible above 25ºF and
should be used below 150ºF. |
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PVC is
often the lowest cost coating if it
will meet the application requirements. |
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Flexile
but not provide the tactile sensitivity
associated with most rubber products |
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Polyvinyl
chloride is not biodegradable |
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Rubber
is an elastic hydrocarbon polymer which
occurs as a milky emulsion (known as latex)
in the sap of a number of plants but can
also be produced synthetically. The natural
rubber is obtained from the rubber tree,
especially Hevea Brasiliensis and Ficus.
The natural rubber dispersed in water is
known as Latex.
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Characteristic: |
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Strength and comfort |
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High elasticity,
excellent cut and tear resistance |
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Impermeability,
adhesiveness, and electrical resistance |
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Outstanding
grip and temperature resistance, flexible
and durable over a wide range of temperature
– 18-149 |
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C (0ºF
to 300ºF) |
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Water repellent
and resistant to alkalies, weak acids
and alcohols |
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Resists
most liquids that will mix with water
(acids, bases, alcohols, acetones) but
not resistant to petroleum |
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based liquids,
grease or solvents. |
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Can cause
allergic reaction in some people |
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Poor flame
resistance |
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The
more than one dozen major classes of synthetic
rubber are made of raw material derived from
petroleum, coal, oil, natural gas, and acetylene.
Many of them are copolymers, i.e., polymers
consisting of more than one monomer. By changing
the composition it is possible to achieve
specific properties desired for special applications. |
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Characteristic: |
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Each synthetic rubber has distinct chemical
and physical properties |
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Excellent
physical hazards resistance to punctures,
cuts, snag and abrasion |
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Strength,
durable, elasticity, versatile and warmth |
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Resist
breakdown by water |
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Resistant
to external substances such as oil,
fuels and certain organic solvents,
grease, acid, caustic and many |
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petroleum
products and chemicals |
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Resists
degradation due to aging, sunlight,
ozone, oxidation and weather |
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& Types of Synthetic Rubbers: |
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Trade
name of chloroprene is Neoprene by DuPont |
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Trade
names of nitrile are Nipol, Krynac and Europrene. |
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Leather
is defined as animal skin that has been chemically
modified to produce a strong, flexible material
with the ability to resist decay.
The chemical process of converting perishable
skins and hides into a stable substance
that does not putrefy, is called tanning.
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Difference
between the terms ‘Hide’ and ‘Skin’: |
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Hide'
means the skin of cattle or bovine or large
animals such as cow, buffalo etc |
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The term "skin"
is used for that of smaller animals such as
goats, sheep and calves. |
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Characteristics: |
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Leather has different properties after
tannage like good heat, spark and abrasion
resistance. |
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Leather
is tear and puncture-resistant. |
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Leather
protects from heat, cold and wind; and
it repels moisture. |
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Leather
is available in a variety of weights
and made with different linings for
comfort in warm and cold weather. |
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Leather
apparel stretches and molds to your
body, yet at the same time retains its
shape. |
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Leather
breathes -- that's what keeps it soft
and supple. |
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Leather
is an agricultural by-product of the
food industry. |
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Basic
Raw Materials: |
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major source of raw hides and skins in Pakistan
are the following animals. |
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Buffalo |
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Cow |
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Goat |
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Sheep |
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Each
of these hides has a unique set of characteristics
in terms of: |
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Graining Structure |
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Compactness |
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Size and
thickness |
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Selection
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Responsiveness
towards a particular chemical and mechanical
process |
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Hand - hand
is how leather feels to the touch. |
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The
characteristics of different cattle hide are
described below: |
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Buffalo
is considered as the specialty of Pakistan
in world, because of its ample availability
in Pakistan. |
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Characteristics: |
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Buffalo is as tough as, and probably
tougher, than the thickest cowhide. |
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Durable,
comfortable and protect against hazards. |
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Grain structure - different sizes of
buffalo hides/skins obtained after being
slaughtered at different stage of its
age have different grain (top layer)
structure. But basically buffalo hides
and skins are in comparison to other
raw materials are coarse look and its
hair follicle is far apart |
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Cowhide
is obtained from a mature female cow, heavy
and durable. Cowhide is used in many forms
and is the most versatile skin. Today, most
leather is made of cow hides, but many exceptions
exist.
It's tough, interlocking structure helps
maintain its look. Cowhide as a category
covers a wide spectrum of textures and quality,
but generally, it is quite durable, easy
to care for and resistant to water and dirt.
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Characteristics: |
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Comfortable, dexterity, durability and
water repellency |
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Resistance
to heat and abrasion, heavier weight |
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One of
the toughest skins available, depending
on the thickness |
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Sometimes
the finish is smooth and flat and sometimes
bumpy, the commonly used skin and for
good reasons. |
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Since cow
raw material's structure is more compact
than buffalo so the leathers, which
are required in low |
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thickness,
are preferred to be produced on cow,
it's because the tear strength of cow
is better than that of |
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buffalo
because of its compact fiber structure.
The nature of defects in cow also varies
from buffalo. |
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Grain structure
- cow grain structure is more towards
compact and finer grain. Its fiber structure
is also compact |
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and finer
than that of buffalo. Its hair follicles
are closer to each other unlike buffalo.
That's why it's more |
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expensive
and is being used in high quality high
priced products. |
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Top
grain – it is the layer of the
hide that was on the outside of the
animal and had the hair growing out
of it. Top grain cowhide’s beautiful
smooth surface is stronger and more
flexible than the split or suede layer.
It is heavier weight and very durable,
fine and tight structure in grain.
The grain leathers will generally
dry softer after wetting than their
suede counterpart. It is considered
a superior raw material upon buffalo
because of its fine, tight and comparatively
uniform structure. Wherever there
is a need of fine grain, durability
and dexterity with big size leathers
required cow would be considered as
the only option. |
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Cowhide
belly – this part of leather is
an economical top grain cowhide for
applications where more variation in
grain surface is acceptable. |
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Split or
sueded – it is the layer below
the top grain. It is rugged for applications
where durability is essential and dexterity
is secondary. Like top grain, the side
leather is the premium quality while
the belly and shoulder areas are used
for economy. |
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Goat
leather grain is a compact grain with its
fiber structure finer and firm. Therefore,
goat skins are suitable for articles which
demand distinct physical properties, e.g.
shoes, garments, protective clothing, lining
and leather goods.
Smaller size is highly demanded as goat
kid leather because of its compact structure
and fine grain surface. The bigger sizes
are relatively coarser.
Goat skin is ample available in Pakistan.
It is known with the name "Hall"
in Pakistan. |
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Characteristics: |
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Light weight, durable and tough |
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Highest
tensile strength |
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Thin and
pliable abrasive wear |
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Grain structure
- goat leather grain is a compact one
with a fine fiber structure. Its hair
follicles are angular. Its tear strength
is very nice because of its compact
and fine fiber structure that's why
it is preferred to produce articles
like suede and is largely used in garments. |
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Basically
there are two types of sheep, wool sheep and
hair sheep. Wool sheep; may be divided into
fine woolen (merino), coarse-woolen and crossbred.
Usually, the wool side faces into the article,
garment or accessory, but it can also be made
reversible.
Leather made from sheep raw materials has
a very good and softer touch and considered
best for leather garments. Smaller sheep
size is considered as baby sheep, and is
known best for its beautiful silky grain.
Sheep skin is ample available in normal
days as well in Eid days and in temperature
climate of Pakistan. It is known with the
name as "Maisha" in Pakistan. |
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Characteristics: |
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Warmest of all leathers - a classic
and soft to the touch |
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Due to the immense amount of hair
roots and fat cells within the skin
the structure is relatively weak.
Therefore and also because of the
thickness of 1 - 3 mm and a size of
0.3 - 1.0 qm, sheep skins are used
for articles which do not require
high physical properties like tear
and tensile strength or size, e.g.
garments, lining, bookbinding leathers.
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Grain
structure - sheep leather is also very
fine grain leather and because of its
wear ability is largely consumed in
garments |
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